When joining two pieces, clamp them together so they won't move until weld is cooled. Butt welds may be made three ways: (1) adding fillet across the gap: (2) tinning facing surfaces, putting them together and moving them slightly under heat to break surface tension of the puddle: or (3) bevelling the two pieces together, tinning and adding fillet to fill the groove. (Click on illustration below)


These can be made two ways: (1) at the end of eachpiece at point of overlay: (2) tin both pieces with extra rod, heat and press together. (Click on illustration below)


May be replaced by backing the edge(s) of the metal next to the void with iron, steel, stainless steel, tin or putty. Heat the base metal. Tin the base metal and build the puddle out on the backing material. Of course the new metal may be filled or ground to shape, and/or drilled and tapped. ( Click on illustraion below)


Pipe can be welded by tinning pieces, adding a small amount of fillet on the top, letting the work cool, turning the pipe and repeating the process until the weld is complete. This can be accomplished without turning the pipe by tinning both pices and, starting at the bottom, and heating sparingly, off to the side and above the work, weld to the top and repeat on the other side. Both these techniques require delicate heat control and practice. Welding a seam "uphill" in the vertical position is done like welding pipe in the uphill position.


These can be fixed by drilling out the hole oversized, backing the hole with iron, steel, stainless steel, tin or putty, heating the metal, tinning the sides of the hole, bottom first, working up, then fill the hole with ULTRA BOND. Then drill and tap.


Tin all areas to be welded, then, by localising heat, add fillet to desired depth throughout and weld around a small area at a time. Cylindrical shapes can also be done in this manner.


These directions also apply for pot metal, white metal and pewter. The "pudding" technique is used. Clean the base metal thoroughly and clamp the piece securley. File or grind the area to be repaired. Heat the metal and rod together and blend. Use a backing when possible to protect your piece. Usually an oxy torch is required because of the bulk of the metal. Use a neutral, soft flame. Since ULTRA BOND and the base metal at the same time. If you have not worked with die cast before, practise on a scrap piece before you begin.


Follow the cleaning, tinning and welding steps described earlier. You are not welding steel, but rather the coating. This will not work on rusted metal.


ULTRA BOND is NOT compatible with magnesium. To determine magnesium, file piece to be repaired and torch filings. If they flare or burn stop! DO NOT attempt to repair magnesium with an open flame. FIRE may result.


As with all welding or brazing, work in a well-ventilated are. Wash hands thoroughly after using. Avoid over-exposure to fumes. Wear gloves, goggles and other protective clothing when cutting, grinding or machining. DO NOT IMMERSE MOLTEN MATERIAL IN WATER, OIL OR OTHER WET AREAS. Let your ULTRA BOND weld or braze air cool until able to be touched.


Weld similar to aluminium. Heat base metal, tin ULTRA BOND and weld. If ULTRA BOND foams on base metal the mapnesium content is too high and will not weld. Keep heat low. Use neutral burning flame on all Mag-Alloys.



(1) Hold the ULTRA BOND rod in the hand you write with, since more dexterity is needed to manipulate the rod than for the torch. (2) For the strongest welds, the base metal, rods, hands and tools should be as clean as possible. (3) Use the rod as a tempreture indicator or "heat stick" while heating the base metal. When the rod melts when rubbing the base metal, lower the heat (back off with torch). When the rod won't melt, continue heat or add more heat, until it will. (4) Propane is a good fuel to use with ULTRA BOND. Torches of many heat ranges are available at welding supply and hardware stores. When using an oxy-acetylene torch, take extra care not to oxidise the weld area. Use low heat, carbonising flame, and heat surrounding area, not the weld joint.

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